- ASTRAKHANA soft, curly, strong wool, obtained from a sheep reared in Astrakhan, Persia, and other Asiatic districts. A cloth of silk and worsted, or all worsted, with a long loosely curled pile, and put on the market as an imitation of real astrakhan. Mohair yam is largely used. The worsted fabric is made in widths 56 to 70-in., 48 X 78 picks, two-fold botany warp, about 2 / 56's to 2 / 70's, and the weft four picks single botany and two picks three-fold mohair. The mohair weft yarn is curled before using, which, when cut (similar to velveteen) causes the free ends of the tufts to curl on the face of the cloth. This cut fabric is known as "Polarian". Sometimes the pile is left uncut. A good quality cloth is made 48-in. wide, 48-ends, 150 picks per inch, 2 / 30's cotton warp, one pick 24's cotton weft, and two picks 88's mohair. A knitted fabric is also on the market as an imitation astrakhan. This is the cheapest method, but does not give the same weight or wearing quality. Astrakhan fabrics are made in two ways : - (1) On the weft principle, in which by the shrinking of the ground texture the pile weft is thrown up as a loop; (2) as a warp texture, in which loops are formed by the warp yarn passing over wires.
Dictionary of the English textile terms. 2014.
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